12/7/2023 0 Comments Awesome 3d clock![]() After sanding all parts to achieve the optimal smoothness, we spray-painted them with a grey primer. ![]() However, we wanted to take that extra step, so we painted the whole model. If you don’t want to spend time painting the skeleton, you can cheat a little: get an ivory PLA filament to give the skeleton the right color from the beginning. ![]() That’s why it’s highly recommended to glue the model together using a two-component adhesive. The only bigger problem with this model is the fact that some of the parts don’t fit perfectly. It’s easy to use and it can also be dipped in water, so it doesn’t stick to your fingers. If there are any imperfections in the printed parts, you can use epoxy putty, which is perfect for this job. This stops the PLA from overheating (and deforming) and also lowers the amount of sandpaper dust. We also recommend the wet sanding process – basically sanding out the imperfections in water or using a wet sandpaper. The more time you spent with lower grit sandpaper, the easier it will be when working with a higher grit. Start with lower grit (around 80), then switch to a finer one (150) and work your way up to higher grit (180+). To achieve a nice smooth surface, use a generic sanding paper. To achieve the best looks, some post-processing is needed. Using the Cut function in Slic3r PE, you can change the height of this part to about 180 mm, which is sufficient for a successful print. Luckily, this can be easily solved: since we recommend gluing the model together, you can cut off the top part of this object, since it’s actually a joint used to connect this part to others. This part is quite tall, exactly 224 mm, so it doesn’t fit in the print area. Also, one part of the skeleton can be a bit troublesome to print – the top of the hip (TRex_Hip_Top.stl). That’s why we need the model to be as light as possible, hence 0% infill. The whole skeleton is mounted to the base using only a single rod. Plus, don’t forget to turn on the ‘brim’ feature – 10 to 15 mm should do. Also, it’s worth noting that in order to ensure a fully support-less print, you should consider lowering the nozzle temperature by about 10☌ (to 200☌) and increasing the fan speed to full power to avoid issues with overhangs. PLA is an ideal material of choice for this case. Only a few parts (pelvis/hip, left leg) need a 10% infill to improve the strength of the parts around the supporting rod. Plus, you can print almost everything just as a hollow shell without an infill. Each part can be printed as a single object (no need for cutting), and supports are pretty much unnecessary. But we obviously aimed for something extra, so we simply scaled the model to 200 % because why the hell not! Even with a model double the original size, the print was surprisingly easy. The original model is free to download from Thingiverse and its default size is around two feet (or 70 cm). All models are free to download from .Ī real-life fossilized T-Rex skeleton may be over 65 million years old, but printing this five-foot-long replica took “only” 140 hours. Please note that the models were printed in the past, hence the Original Prusa i3 MK2 printer in some of the photos. Many of these amazing models have been made by Pavel Rauš, who really knows how to print impressive models. And it’s not only about printing, there’s a ton of post-processing work put into them. And, please excuse us, but we would like to pat ourselves on the back a little bit: those are some really cool prints! No wonder – it took hundreds and hundreds of hours to make them. When we travel the world to show off our 3D printers, people often ask us not only about our machines but also about the 3D printed models we usually bring with us.
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